Layering and basting a quilt

When it comes to layering and basting a quilt together to prepare it for machine quilting, there are several ways to approach the task. I've used different techniques including spray basting, pinning to the floor, etc., but my standard method is using an oblong table. This procedure is explained and illustrated further in Harriet Hargrave's Heirloom Machine Quilting--4th Ed.

The first step in putting it all together is to turn your quilt top over and clip all the loose threads from the back, making sure your seam lines are pressed to one side or open, with no flipped seams that will add bulk. If you plan to stitch-in-the-ditch, always press seams to one side in the piecing process. Press both sides of the top and use a bit of spray starch if desired. If your backing fabric has a seam, press it open and starch the entire backing for smooth quilting.

Mark the center edge of the two short sides of the table with either a toothpick, safety pin, or button; tape over the top. Fold the backing fabric and mark the center edge with a safety pin. With the fabric wrong side up, lay the backing down on the table, matching the safety pin to the toothpick on the table.

Use large office clips to secure the backing fabric to the table top. The fabric should be taut but not stretched off grain.

Use as many clips as necessary to secure the backing fabric to the table top. Smooth out any wrinkles and re-clip if you see any waves in the fabric. The center clip on both ends of the table should clamp over the toothpick.

Fold the batting to find the center and lay it over the backing, matching the center fold with the tootpick (you can't see it but you can feel it). Smooth out the batting over the clamped backing.

Put the top over the batting, matching the centers. It's a good idea to cut your batting piece about 2-4" larger than the quilt top--this is a bit close here so be careful to give yourself what you need.

Be sure your pins don't get in the way of your quilting foot. My quilting plan is to first stitch-in-the-ditch through all the horizontal and vertical seams; next I will free motion a continuous curve through the rose colored triangles (this could actually be accomplished with a walking foot because of the slight curve and it can also help get over any bulky seams where the triangles meet). Therefore, I pinned the aqua and light green triangles so it will hold secure and my walking foot or free motion foot will clear the pins.

Begin pinning from the center out. Once you have pinned everything on the surface, unclamp the backing. Smooth out one side and pin out to the border; repeat with the other three sides. After stitching-in-the-ditch and forming a grid of stitch lines your quilt is now anchored. If necessary, some of the pins can be removed without worry of shifting the layers.

Copyright ©2009, Sharon Baggs

Chevron Lines--Quick and Classic

Having taught students how to quilt simple line designs on samplers, the chevron line design is one I've always wanted to use on a full scale quilt. Recently, I was contacted to quilt this top for a man who is a Denver Broncos fan...this is a birthday gift from his wife. For a strip quilt such as this, chevron lines are classic, masculine, and fairly easy to quilt.

Strip quilts can be somewhat challenging to square up because there isn't a corner block to work off of. Measure it through the top, middle, and bottom both vertically and horizontally with a 120" tape measure to get it right. I used my 12" square acrylic ruler and a metal T-square to check the corners.

To mark the top, I used a Clover white chalk wheel and a 6" x 24" acrylic ruler. The chalk does stay on fairly well through the quilting. It's easy to remark when necessary and rubs out when you want it to.

First I chalked a line 1/2" in from the edge around the perimeter of the quilt--this is the quilting edge that will be covered by binding eventually but I use it as a guide to quilt to. I can move beyond this line a few stitches to travel to the next quilting line without having to stop and start a new line of quilting.

Next, line up the 45 degree angle of the acrylic ruler on the chalked quilting line and begin marking a line from the top left corner. Keep the ruler on the line and mark the next line, 1-1/2" away.

It really doesn't matter when you decide to change directions and make a point that meets at the quilting edge, but I found the center and then ended up marking it off-set a bit which looked fine. With that kind of freedom, you really can't go wrong. No need to worry about an exact fit as with some grids, this design works even if you decide on 1" or 2" spaced lines.

Using 1" stainless steel safety pins, keep them horizontal with the chalked lines. The quilting is done with a walking foot so there is room for the foot to clear the pins. A sufficient number of pins will prevent puckering and distortion that can occur when quilting long lines; unfortunately this problem is difficult to hide on solid fabrics so keep the pins in as you quilt.

This quilt has Quilter's Dream 100% cotton batting, which I presoaked and dried in the dryer because the quilt fabric had been prewashed. My client wanted the thread to match--navy on navy and orange on orange. The backing was navy so the tricky part was to balance the thread tension so I didn't get pop-ups from the navy bobbin thread while quilting the orange. I quilted several rows on a practice swatch, made adjustments and the tension was balanced. There were a lot of starts and stops but keeping dedicated to 1/4" of small stitches (8-10) at the beginning and end of a quilting line keeps everything secure. Then bury those threads, rather than snip them at the surface. I used a quality thread, Presencia 50/3.

Copyright ©2009, Sharon Baggs

Washing a quilt

Whether or not I prewash my fabric, and that does depend on the quilt's use and desired 'look', the first bath usually happens directly after the binding goes on. There is a bit of dust and oil from handling and marking the quilt during the construction process that needs to be removed so the quilt will emerge soft, cuddly, and ready for the bed or couch.

The basic soap is Sodium Laurel Sulfate, commonly known as Orvus Paste or Quilt Soap, packaged in 8 oz. bottles. After discovering the same is used to wash livestock, I bought a 7.5 lb. container at a feed store. It's an inexpensive way to dispense some soap and washing instructions to those who own a quilt. I learned my lesson when my niece washed her batik quilt with a commercial detergent which stripped the original color. Fabric has binders to retain the color and detergents go on the attack. Stick with pure, simple ingredients that are biodegradable and won't harm your fabrics. Soak continues to amaze me by successfully removing stubborn stains.

Batiks and hand-dyed fabrics have a greater tendency to bleed color. Prewashing with Synthrapol helps remove excess dye. If a quilt is constructed without this pre-treatment, use Retayne to stop the fabric from bleeding, particularly when a dark fabric is sewn to a light fabric. For future washings, I use Woolite's Dye Magnet or Shout's Color Catcher, both of which resemble dryer sheets to pick up any renegade dyes in both the washing and drying cycles.

Here's my 10-step process to washing quilts:

1. set the washing machine to the delicate cycle.


2. fill the wash tub with warm water (no more than 80 degrees)


3. add 1-2 tablespoons of mild soap. Allow the soap to agitate for a minute.


4. toss in a color-catching sheet to catch renegade dyes.


5. stop the machine from agitating while adding the quilt into the basin.


6. push the quilt into the water until it is saturated.


7. resume the wash, rinse, and spin cycles.


8. remove the quilt carefully from the washing machine.


9. dry on low heat for 20 mins. until slightly damp.


10. complete drying by laying the quilt flat on a clean sheet on the floor.

Older quilts must be handled with care. Use the bath tub to hand wash. Hand press out the extra water, blot with a terry towel and dry flat on a sheet. Set a fan to aid drying. Quilts with some wear and tear should only be aired, not washed.

Copyright ©2009, Sharon Baggs

Single stitch throat plate

Sewing machines come with a standard throat plate with an oval opening to accommodate everyday sewing. A single stitch throat plate is an added accessory worth investing in. It garners excellent stitch quality for both piecing and quilting. Particularly with free motion quilting, there is a noticeable difference using the single stitch throat plate. One stitch at a time through the hole keeps the stitchline straight and even.

With a standard throat plate there is a greater possibility of fabric bunching up, even slightly. Some of the chronic problems with thread knots and skipped stitches can be remedied with the use of a single stitch throat plate. Just don't try to zig zag, satin stitch, decorative stitch, or shift the needle position with the single stitch throat plate on or you will break a needle!

Copyright ©2009, Sharon Baggs